Sunday, December 28, 2008

The Beautiful Northland


We continued to travel north from the Auckland region, visiting many lovely white sanded beaches along the way. We spent the next night at a regional park called Mahurangi which was absolutely gorgeous, yet another lovely sandy beach lined with red pohutakawa trees!



The next day we moved on north to do some snorkelling! We were very excited about this and had even purchased our own snorkel gear! Goat Island is a 547 hectare area established in 1978 as New Zealand's first marine reserve and apparently the place to go snorkelling. So we got our gear on and walked out from the beach into the water. It was FREEZING. Now, we had already discovered how cold the sea water in New Zealand is on various other beaches- Chris has succeeded in submerging himself in the water, but I however have failed miserably every time, only getting as far as my thighs!



We built up the courage to get fully in and underwater after about 5 minutes, but unfortunately I had huge problems with my mask...it was letting in quite a lot of water. We tried to sort that out for about 10 minutes while also trying to avoid huge waves crashing over us at the same time- difficult. We tried again for about 5 minutes and had a little swim around and we think we saw a snapper fish but we both decided it was just too cold to stay in! So after a grand total of 20 minutes we gave up completely and sunbathed on the beach trying to get warm!! Chris stayed freezing for about an hour after which was quite worrying! We also came to the conclusion that I need a child mask to snorkel as an adults is too big! Oh dear..it was all a bit of a disaster really!



After warming up in the van we then drove on to stunning Pakiri Beach, about 12k from Goat Island Reserve. The beach was another unspoilt expanse of white sand and huge surf. It was paradise.



The next day we moved on towards Whangerei, the main town of the north. The drive took us past more lovely beaches and wonderful views over islands in the Pacific. We passed through Whangerei, with a little stop off at The Warehouse (an amazing New Zealand shop that sells EVERYTHING) to grab a cheap Christmas tree and decorations! We stayed the night at Matapouri, a great beach on the Tutukaka coast, after the best New Zealand Fish and Chips we´ve had so far in sweet little village of Ngunguru.



The next day we went scuba diving! After failing to do so in South America we were determined to dive in New Zealand. The best dive site we had about was up here in the Northland, called Poor Knights Islands. The marine reserve was established in 1981 and is actually rated as one of the worlds top 10 dive sites. The islands out in the Pacific are bathed in a subtropical current from the Coral Sea, so lots of varieties of tropical and sub tropical fish can be seen here. We were pretty excited..and also terrified! We both completed our PADI course nearly 4 years ago and the last time we dived was 3 years ago in Thailand. Therefore we had absolutely no idea what we were doing. We made this clear to the instructors and they offered us a refresher course but us being the budget travellers that we are, we didn't really want to fork out the extra cash, so we decided to rely on our awful memory!


We arrived at the dive site and were told to get ready with all the equipment (some of which we couldn't even remember the name of!!). We eventually, after copying everyone else and a lot of help from the instructors, managed to get all the gear on! We got in the water- which again was VERY cold, but the big wetsuits helped a lot. Unfortunately I had mask troubles again and no adult masks fit, luckily they had junior mask for me which was perfect! So after a lot of faffing around we were finally ready to go under. One major thing I had completely forgotten about was the whole buoyancy thing! I was quickly reminded about it as soon as I tried to get down to the bottom..and also how awful I used to be at it! It took me a while but eventually, after ascending to the surface a few times, I made it down! And it was beautiful! The coral and the fish were stunning..and the water was so clear! I was quite apprehensive for half the first dive, getting used to the whole ´breathing underwater´ thing again! But towards the end of the dive I was relaxed and absolutely loved it!



The second dive was even better- we were much more relaxed about the whole thing and had kind of remembered what we were supposed to be doing! The fish again were great, we saw 2 huge sting rays too! One of the highlights was diving into a cave 7 metres below the surface! We all popped our heads up into the air pocket and chatted to each other..while underwater! It was amazing! The whole area above sea level was beautiful, there were great rock formations and a huge limestone cave that we went into in the boat- apparently the largest sea cave in the world!



The next day we travelled back into Whangerei to visit Abbey Caves, a network of three caverns full of glow-worms and limestone formations. Only one cave was open at the time and it was fantastic! We had to whole cave to ourselves to explore, we were walking in freezing cold water up to our waist at one point!



The glow-worms were amazing, there completely covered the walls and ceiling of the cave, it was such a beautiful sight! It reminded me of looking up at the stars on a really clear night! We also visited Whangerei waterfalls which is apparently the most photographed waterfall in New Zealand! As you can see it was quite photogenic!


Piha and Muriwai

We travelled back up to Auckland, via Huntly to pick up Tom´s newly fixed car. He was very pleased to have it back, and we set off in convoy once again (not letting him out of our sight this time) up to the west of Auckland into the Waikakere Ranges Regional Park.

The park is 16,000 hectares of complete wilderness bordered by beautiful rugged black sanded beaches on the west. Our first stop was the lovely popular beach town of Piha which is famous for its surf breaks. The weather wasn´t great while we were there so we didn´t even get in the water, but we did climb up the 101m Lion Rock which is right in the middle of the beach to get great views of the surrounding bays.

We stayed in a camp-site right on the beach which had the added benefit of baby ducklings!!

We then visited Muriwai Beach, a bit further north of Piha, another rugged black sand surf beach stretching about 50km. Our reason to visit Muriwai was the large Takapu Gannet Colony that nest here from August to January.

Every August the big sea-birds return to this spot right off the beach on surrounding cliffs, to meet up with their mate and produce a cute little chick! And luckily the best time to see the little chicks is December..and we saw lots! It was fantastic! We walked to several look outs to see the birds and their babies, we watched them at sunset and it was a beautiful sight!

Bay of Plenty


The lovely drive around the beautiful East Coast ended up in the Bay of Plenty. Captain Cook christened the Bay when he sailed into the harbour back in 1769, it stretches from Waihi Beach in the east, which we visited during our Coromandel trip, all the way west to Opotiki. We spent a great night at the long sandy Opotiki Beach watching the sunset and then travelled up the Bay to lovely Ohope Beach.

The eastern side of the Bay consists of beautiful long stretches of white sandy beaches with a gorgeous back drop of cliffs covered with the famous New Zealand Christmas Tree...the pohutakawa tree, which is now blooming red in the run up to Christmas. We stayed near Whakatane, which is a lovely little harbour town, and then made our way north to Tauranga.

We stopped off on the way at Maketu- a town made famous by Makatu Pies, baked fresh and daily here! And of course we had to try the local produce, or in Chris´s case- about 3 of the local produce! We also stopped off at Te Puke- the Kiwifruit Capital of the World! The kiwifruit earns New Zealand over a billion dollars every year and most of them are grown in the Bay of Plenty, so its quite a big deal around here! We visited Kiwi 360 which sits amongst orchards and orchards of pears, oranges, avocados and of course.. kiwifruits! We had a 30 minute kiwi cart ride around the kiwi orchards and we were told EVERYTHING you could possibly know and want to know about kiwifruits!

We then tasted the golden and the green kiwi, some kiwi liqueurs and kiwi jam. We were told how its a perfect place to grow the kiwis here due to the good balance in sunshine and rainfall.Unfortunately for the rest of our time in the Bay of Plenty we experienced quite a lot of that all important rainfall needed for the kiwifruits!

Napier and Hawkes Bay


We had a long 5 hour drive over to the East Coast but it was worth it! The first couple of days were spent around Napier. On the drive there we found a massive waterfall and just past that a great big field by a lovely river in the middle of nowhere for our first night...it was fab! Very remote!

The city itself was great, we walked down to the beach which was beautiful, and we walked all around the strange town full of colourful Art Deco buildings!

There was an earthquake in 1931 that destroyed much of Napier, and frantic reconstruction between 1931 and 1833 caught architects in the Art Deco mania! Its a an odd old town but we enjoyed walking around and taking photos!

One of the reasons for our trip over this part of the country was to visit the famous Hawkes Bay wine region, which Napier falls right into. There are wineries everywhere you look- this area is most famous for the hundreds and hundreds of orchards, its the prime location to grow grapes as the weather is so perfect.

We were recommended a winery to visit, which was good as there are so many to chose from! It was called Craggy Range and was in the most beautiful setting- just beyond is the Te Mata Peak Park- to local Maori this is the sleeping giant Te Mata O Rongotaha and the view from the winery was fantastic! The wine was good too! We had a great tasting of 6 delicious wines and decided to splash out on a bottle at the end.

We then drove up to the 399m summit of Te Mata Peak and had even more spectacular views of the winery and its vineyards from above, as well as the whole of the Hawkes Bay area. It was a great day, and we topped it off by finding one of the most perfect beaches to watch an amazing sunset on, while drinking our lovely wine.

We spent the next day lazing around on the perfect Ocean Beach, and then made our way round the East Coast towards Gisbourne.